The Pueblos of Chaco Canyon

Chaco Culture National Historical Park lies twenty-some bumpy miles over unpaved roads from US 550 in northern New Mexico.  Only hardy campers venture the washboarded road--and only when it's dry--so the park is a quiet place to view the ancient pueblos and commune with the sky.

The pueblo sites here date from the mid-800s to the late 1100s.  The large pueblos contain hundreds of multi-storied rooms and large kivas--Pueblo Bonito has over 600 rooms and 40 kivas.  The layout of the complexes appears to have been designed and planned from the start, rather than randomly added-on.   Many features of the pueblos are oriented to the cardinal directions and to the movements of the sun and moon in the sky as they mark the yearly cycle.  The capital of the Chacoan world, Pueblo Bonito is also a part of the sacred tradition of the local Pueblo tribes.

The walls are very thick, and elaborately veneered in different patterns of stone.  The local sandstone splits naturally into construction-ready slabs, but the preferred stone came from the top of the cliffs, not the bottom--so some labor was involved in gathering building materials.  Wooden beams to support the roofs were brought in from forests many miles away.

Reddish discoloration from fire can be seen on the walls of the great kiva in Chetro Ketl, another large pueblo.  Archeologists believe that the kiva was purposefully burned as part of a ceremonial closure, not just abandoned.  Turquoise and other valuables were found sealed into the wall niches of the kiva.  Deep walled pits in the floor of the kiva held massive stone disks (in center photo), which served as pedestals for the huge beams that supported the roof's weight.  Modern engineers would support the roof with just the same type of foundation.

The large pueblos sit down in the canyon, while outlying sites such as Penasco Blanco and Pueblo Alto sit high on the canyon rims, often along one of the linear roads that linked the Chacoan capital to its far-flung empire.  Pottery of widely varying regional styles, copper objects, timbers, and macaw feathers provide evidence of the extensive Chacoan trade network, north to the Colorado mountains and south to Mexico.  Great houses with Chaco-style architecture are found all through this region.

These sites are less impressive in scale, but more contemplative.  I spent some hours watching the clouds and lizards at Penasco Blanco, singing songs to the spirits of the people who had occupied them.  If I had lived in Chaco time, I'd have preferred living in these wide-open spaces to the valley floor.

The Chacoan roads are several feet wide and bordered by carefully placed stones.  They run straight and true, with no regard to the terrain.  Where a steep slope got in the way, a ladder was built or a set of steps hacked out.  Look carefully and you can see the hand- and footholds pecked into the canyon wall (just left of center in the left-hand image), climbing from the vegetation along the left side of the large slab of rock below.  What official business of importance required such a road--both carefully engineered and symbolically aligned?  The modern trail (right) ascends more safely, but also dramatically, through a crack in the canyon wall.  A small pueblo called Kin Kletso sits at the base of this crack, which was probably also used by the Chaco people.

Elsewhere on the mesa tops you can find metates--scooped-out depressions where someone ground corn, stones arranged in circles, pot sherds and charcoal fragments.  People have made homes in this place for thousands of years, and still do.

 

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